Beauty takes on a new meaning when it comes to Echeveria lola. This graceful succulent timid is central to showy plants. The gray-blue leaves shimmer with a slight hint of pink, or acquire a greenish tint. Echeveria lola is a common domestic succulent – and for good reason.
Lola is a hardy plant that grows well in containers and landscapes. The farina on its leaves offers a mottled texture, which adds interest to any garden. The Echeveria lola is not only attractive and resistant, but also requires little maintenance. What else can you ask for in a factory?
All About Lola
Echeveria lola is a cross between Echeveria lilacina and Echeveria derenbergii. There is much debate as to whether Echeveria deresina or E. ‘Tippy’ is a relative rather than E. derenbergii. The credit for this wonderful hybrid goes to Dick Wright, who created it in 1980.
Lola is tough, but still vulnerable to Frost. Zones 9 to 11 are perfect for outdoor cultivation and xeriscaping. For you, northerners, E. lola makes a fantastic houseplant. Of course, there is always the possibility of planting your succulent in a container and moving it depending on the weather.
Peach bell-shaped flowers bloom in spring and summer. They rest on long, frayed stems and attract pollinators. Lola also grows compensations, which are affectionately called “puppies”. The main growth occurs in the summer, but at a moderate pace.
Due to its Mexican roots, you can see this juicy called “Mexican chickens and chicks”. However, this is a generic name that applies to many aldermen.
Flower Lola Care
Lola’s care instructions are similar to those of most succulents. Since lola is resistant, it is the perfect plant for gardeners who want to start growing succulents.
Light and temperature
The General light recommendation for Echeveria lola is full sun to partial shade. However, you should keep your Lola out of direct sunlight in the afternoon, as the leaves can burn. The best outdoor location is the one with bright light in the morning and partial shade in the afternoon.
Inside, Place your Mexican chickens and chicks in a south-facing window, which will have the most sun. Lola also thrives under grow lights. Cooler temperatures can exaggerate the pink coloration. However, your succulent will not survive temperatures below 20°F.
Just as the pupils of your eyes must adapt to exposure to light, succulents must acclimate to the sun. Gradually move your plant to its new location so that it has enough time to adapt. This is especially important for young seedlings, which are more vulnerable.
Water and humidity
Your Echeveria lola will be perfectly satisfied with the old “soak and dry” method. Soak the water from the soil until it drains from the drainage hole. Then let it dry completely before watering again. This irrigation technique imitates the desert in which Lola is used.
Keep the rosette dry during pouring to avoid moisture-related problems. You should also avoid planting in damp places, such as a closed terrarium. The best container for any succulent is a pottery pot (without glaze). The surface of these pots allows water to evaporate through it, minimizing the risk of excessive watering.
Watch your succulent for signs that the water is out. If the leaves are yellow and mushy or fall off easily, the plant is overloaded. Conversely, insufficient watering will cause the leaves to shrivel, wilt and turn brown.
A well-drained soil is absolutely essential for all succulents-especially Echeveria lola. Choose one that drains quickly so that your plant is never in the water. Prefabricated succulent soils are available in almost every garden store. You can also mix yours with one part potting soil and one part perlite or sand.
Although succulent soils are designed to be well drained, they can still retain too much water, especially when used in soil. If this is the matter, repair it by adding additional drainage materials.
Echeveria lola does not need fertilizers as it grows. However, if your Lola reaches a growth plateau or looks dark, you can give her a dose. Use a liquid fertilizer of half concentration, balanced or low nitrogen.
Repot your plant every two years so that it can get fresh soil. Take this opportunity to examine the roots for rot or other signs of damage. After replanting, do not water your succulent for a few days. This will give him time to calm down and heal from any injuries.
Before repotting, check if the new container has drainage holes. Without them, water will quickly accumulate in the soil, causing root rot. Echeveria lola cannot survive sitting in a puddle.
Reproduction is easy and fun with this plant. This can be done with leaf or stem cuttings, offsets and divisions. Once you understand it, you will be able to effectively transform one plant into several.
Leaf cuttings grow the longest, but are usually successful. Gently twist one leaf from the stem, be sure to remove the entire leaf. Let it dry for a few days, then put it on well-drained soil. Spray the cutting with water until it deposits the roots in the ground. It is a slow process, but worth it when you finally see a small rose rising from the Leaf.
Stem cuttings and offsets are pretty much the same with regards to reproduction. With a sharp knife, cut the STEM about a centimeter below the top of the rosette. Remove the lower leaves and leave to dry. Once the cutting is complete, stick the cutting vertically into a juicy soil and spray it with water.
The old lower leaves of Echeveria lola naturally fall off. If your juicy leaves have fallen that are still clinging to the stem, you can carefully remove them by hand. Clean all fallen leaves that are in the pot. If left there to decompose, they can invite pests and ailments.
If your succulent sends delays and you don’t care about the look, cut them off! Cut them with a sharp trimmer and keep the area dry while it freezes. Instead of throwing away the lags, try propagating them!
Do you know the main cause of pass away of succulents? It’s not the pests, the location or even the neglect. The majority of succulent pass aways are caused by excessive watering. The damage caused by this is not immediately noticeable, but certainly fatal.
Root rot occurs when constantly moist roots begin to decompose and invite ailment-as a result of excessive watering. It usually starts in the roots and spreads to the STEM and leaves. The affected sections become black or brown and mushy. Unfortunately, these lumps cannot be cured.
To eliminate root rot, you need to cut off the wrong parts of the plant. Then keep the succulent dry and out of the ground for a few days so that it can heal. Replant it in New dry soil. If the majority of the STEM and roots are rotten, you will have more success taking cuttings from the healthy parts and spreading them.